This October, I visited Kirk at his chic tasting room and winery in Russian River Valley. He crafts all his wines at the Venge Winery in Calistoga, but maintains barrels at this facility. I must admit that his Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays have some of the most profound aromatics and textural profiles that I have experienced in the valley. Kirk’s winery flies under the radar as far as recognition, so get on their mailing list early for these limited gems.

In 2015 Five Wells Vineyard was established by Crawford and Jane Selina Kwon Wells of Sebastopol. The vineyard is located at the southernmost edge of the Russian River Valley AVA in the sub-region of Sebastopol Hills. It is composed of Vosne-Romanee and Pommard Clones of Pinot Noir and fermented with native yeasts. It is aged for 16 months in 50% New French Oak barrels.

The 2022 Croix Estate 5 Wells Pinot Noir reveals Kirk Venge’s unwavering commitment to small-lot, artisanal winemaking. In the glass, this Pinot Noir reveals a luminous ruby hue with garnet highlights. The bouquet is captivating, offering a tapestry of aromas of fresh wild berries and spring flowers. On the palate, there is a seamless interplay of texture and flavor. There is a vibrant core of red fruits of cherry compote, pomegranate and red plum with a whisper of thyme complemented by an array of complex baking spices. In the background are elements of powdered cinnamon and cocoa powder. The well-balanced lively acidity provides balance and energy carrying it effortlessly to a long and impressive conclusion.

By W Peter Hoyne