Tom Dehlinger, a U.C. Davis enologist and his wife Carole founded Dehlinger in 1975 on a 14-acre parcel of land. Today, the 45 acres of estate vineyard, formerly an apple orchard, is planted in gravely Altamont and Goldridge sub-spoils. Second generation Eva Dehlinger is the general manager and Carmen Dehlinger is the director of sales and marketing. Dehlinger continues to maintain a very loyal following because of the consistency, complexity and high-quality style of their wines.

The Altamont Pinot Noir designation is sourced from hilltop vineyards planted in reddish-brown, sandy loam sub-soils. Altamont ripens slightly earlier than Goldridge. This is an intellectual exercise into what defines a classic Russian River Pinot Noir. The intense, dense dark ruby hue showcases refined baking spices and perfumed earth. Sweet kirsch, raspberry coulis, cinnamon, and some dusty earth welcome you on the entry. The framework of this wine is expansive, well textured and extremely silky on the palate. It has a very long finish that speaks of its pedigree.

By W Peter Hoyne